Farmer-Led Innovations in Specialty Coffee: Terroir, Taste, and Sustainability in Taiwan

This paper explores the resurgence of coffee cultivation in Taiwan, particularly how farmers in the specialty coffee industry strive to produce high-quality flavors that express the concept of terroir through innovative agricultural methods. Rooted in the Third Wave coffee movement, Taiwanese farmers are embracing the challenge of crafting "authentic" coffee flavors by engaging in selective breeding and meticulous farming practices. These practices include grafting, field management, and the adoption of advanced technologies to enhance coffee beans' quality and consistency.

Through extensive field research and interviews, this study examines how these farmers cultivate authenticity, focusing on the sociological and economic dimensions of their work. While pioneering farmers succeed in producing high-scoring coffees for global competitions, such as the Cup of Excellence, these successes highlight the inequalities within both local and global coffee markets. The economic and cultural capital required to thrive in this niche industry creates barriers for smaller farmers, amplifying domestic disparities and reinforcing global inequities rooted in unequal access to resources and expertise.

Furthermore, this paper sheds light on the challenges that Taiwanese coffee farmers face in navigating the complexities of terroir. These challenges, which include geography, climate, and human intervention, are significant. However, by positioning themselves as key players in the global specialty coffee value chain, these farmers are also confronting issues of authenticity and sustainability. Their practices contribute to the evolving discourse on taste and value in the agri-food sector, illustrating the intersection of local innovation and global market demands. This study underscores the Taiwanese specialty coffee industry's entanglement in broader socioeconomic structures, raising critical questions about sustainability, inequality, and the role of farmer experimentation in shaping agri-food futures.